The Bird house plant stand makes a great lawn or garden ornament.
These plant stand-bird house combination pieces are made using new white wood for the bird house, re-purposed 4 and 5 gallon food grade buckets for the base, and used 2 by 4s or tree branches for the support posts. Also used were small pieces of pallet wood for the stabilizing pieces on the ends of the post.
A new addition will be a 5” by 7” plaque for a welcome sign are name plate.
Needed for this project ( for an individual stand ) are 2/ 1” by 6” by 12” pieces; 2/ 1” by 4” by 11” pieces; 1/ 1” by 4” by 18” piece; 1/ 2” by 4” by 30”; 1/1” by 6” by 7” piece for the roof; and if you do not have access to pallet wood ( 1/2” by 3 1/2” by one 12” and one 9 ” use pieces of the 1” by 4” cut to those lengths; 1/ 12” and 1/ 9” ; 2/ 2 1/2” by 3/8” pieces of dowel rod. ( I used branch pieces that fit snugly in the 3/8” holes). Rubber silicone or flexible caulking; Also a 5 gallon food grade bucket; additionally needed; 12 ,4d finishing nails ; 11, 1 1/2” drywall screws; 6, 3” drywall screws; 4/ 1 1/4” drywall screws to secure bird house to base; some rubber silicone or flexible window caulk Paint or stain of your choosing; ( I use Zinsser primer and acrylic paints/ the primer is also mixed with the colors as the base ) ; lastly or nearly so is a clear exterior grade gloss.. ( I use Rustoleum brand gloss or clear enamel spray).
A creek gravel mixture was used in the bottom of the bucket , partially as filler and for weight . Potting soil will be added when the time comes to plant flowers or vegetables in the bucket.
Tools needed ; A drill with a 3/32 nd. inch bit, a 3/8”s inch bit , a hole saw bit or wood hole bit ( 1 1/4” or 1 1/2” dia. ); a Philips head bit ; A hand or power saw; Philips head screw driver; A hammer ; A caulking gun; ruler and tape measure.
Now you are ready to cut all the pieces of wood to their intended lengths. Once the pieces have been cut take one of the 1” by 6” by 12” pieces and measure in 3/8” on the long sides and lightly draw a line from top to bottom. Next measure down from the top 1 1/2” ….. 5 1/2” and 9 1/2”;; mark the spots then drive a finishing nail through till it just comes out the other side, do this for each spot. You can also prep the other by 6”by 12” board now in the same way.
Now take one of those 12” pieces and one of the 1” by 4” by 11” pieces and line them up for one corner of the house. Starting at the top with end flush drive in the top nail, then drive the bottom nail then the middle nail. Line the other 11” piece up the same way and pound in those nails the same way. turn this joined piece over and do the same, making sure that the top edge is flush to the rest.
The 18” floor piece can be put in place , and centered by measuring in 6 and 1/4” from each end of the 18” piece. When centered measure in 1/2” from the bottom of each 12” piece that make up the front and back of the house , and in 1” from the edges and mark, then using the small drill bit drill two starter holes front and back. Don’t drill all the way in to the floor piece so that the 1 1/2 ”screws will have something to grip. now add the screws. The floor piece should be inside the 12” piece about 1/4” .
Don’t secure the top until later. you can mark where the right and left screw will be placed if you want to.. The roof should hang over the front about 1 1/2”, about 1/2” over the back. measure from the back edges in 3” and 3/8” from the sides. One screw on each side should be enough, and make it easier to remove the top to clean out the old nest before a new one is needed. ( If you are simply going to use the bird house as a decoration cover the opening(s) with screen or cardboard so the female can’t get in.
For the entrance holes , decide which 12” board will be the front, For a single opening measure up from the bottom 7” and out from the side about 2 3/4” (check the actual width of your board to find the center) and drill the 1 1/4” or 1 1/2” hole. below this opening drill a 3/8” hole for the perch( dowel ). For a double opening center a 1 1/4” hole 3” down from the top and center one 1 1/4” hole 6 1/2” up from the bottom. The top perch will be 1” below opening, the lower perch 1 1/2” below opening. This does not make for a double nesting situation only one bird ( wren, likely) will use the spot.
Around the top of the bird house before securing the roof run a small bead of silicone or caulking . Take the roof piece and along the inside apply masking tape where it would contact the silicone. This should allow the roof to be taken off when it is time to clean out the old nest.
The bird house can now be painted with the color(s) you have chosen. The roof piece needs the starter holes made before painting, you will dab on to the paint when the screws are put in later. Also paint the bucket and let it dry, Secure the roof now. dab some paint on the top of the screws.
For the support post take and center the 12” pallet wood piece or 1” by 4” by 12” board on the 2 by 4 draw a box on the support piece from this mark a center spot then out from the center to the right and left mark alternate sides of the center for the other two screws. Drill the starter holes but not more than an inch into the 2 by 4 itself . screw the support to the post using the 3” screws. For the bottom 9” support center and screw on the same way. Paint the support post and top piece.
Now after everything is painted and dry ,center the bird house on the top support piece and screw in two short screws on each side. You may need to angle them so that they do not go through the bottom. The 1 1/2” screws will work if you used the 1’x’ 4” board. Dab some paint on the top of these screws too.
We are nearing the finish line . Stand the post in the bucket and add what ever base dirt or gravel you decided on. About 4 inches of dirt or gravel should do. And there will be plenty of room for potting soil.
The bird house can be glossed after the paint has dried or after the house is secured in the base soil.